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A portrait of Princess Diana

12 Aug

This beautiful portrait of Princess Diana caught my eye as I made my way down the stairs in the private apartments of Kensington Palace after leaving the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection, which is housed in part of Princess Margaret’s former apartment.

Here’s the thing – part of the pay off for occasionally being allowed to peek behind the scenes in royal residences is an unspoken understanding that you’ll be discreet about the things that you see and my initial impulse was not to mention this painting. However, I’ve since learned that it has been on public display in the Museum of Wales in Cardiff and so decided that it would be okay to share its loveliness with you all.

I love this portrait – it was painted in 1984 (is it terrible that I immediately correctly guessed the year it was painted because of her hairstyle?) by John Stanton Ward and depicts the late princess in her gorgeous Emanuel designed wedding dress, trailing a piece of lace or gauze between her fingers. The expression on her face is arresting – caught somewhere between wistfulness and amusement, she looks like a princess from a fairy tale.

The artist, John Ward wrote later that: ‘When I was asked to paint this portrait I was immensely flattered. A glorious subject. The wedding dress was chosen by mutual consent.

The portrait was painted at Kensington Palace. With the elaborate dress and the simplicity of the shape of the couch, I eliminated all background. It was wonderful to attempt so splendid a subject.

Apparently, Princess Diana also loved this portrait and insisted upon hanging it in her private apartment at Kensington Palace after her divorce from Prince Charles. I’m not surprised to be honest – it’s a lovely painting even if the sight of herself in her wedding dress may well have been ever so slightly bittersweet.

What do you think? I think it’s lovely to see a painted royal portrait for a change – the royal family have really embraced photography in a big way, which is great but I miss the days of grand portraits by the likes of Van Dyck, Gainsborough and Vigée Lebrun with sumptuously shimmering fabrics and all the other gorgeously elaborate trappings.

It seems to be the thing right now to make the trip to Buckingham Palace to peer at the Duchess of Cambridge’s gorgeous lace and silk wedding dress, but I’m considering heading off to Althrop in Northamptonshire instead to pay a visit to Princess Diana’s dress. Unfashionable it may well be but it’s still my favourite royal wedding dress.

Blashfield & Eakins’ portraits of their wives – fab art history guest post by @MadMissLiza!

15 Jun

Hello, all of Mme. Guillotine’s readers! I am your guest hostess for today, Miss Liza, and I am here to take you on a little trip across the pond to 19th century Philadelphia. We’re going to look at some portraits of American artists’ wives, and talk a bit about how different artists used their lovely partners-in-crime to express their artistic vision.

The main focus of this is going to be Thomas Eakins’ portrait of his wife, Susan Macdowell, and his dog, Harry. The painting itself is visually interesting and intellectually stimulating; however, the time we spent looking at it greatly outstrips the amount of time spent on this painting in the academic literature. For all its incongruities, Eakins’ The Artist’s Wife and Setter Dog is generally relegated to a brief passing mention before the text moves on to other works or aspects of Eakins’ life. The only serious treatment of the painting is in the catalogue for an exhibition of Eakins’ work at the National Portrait Gallery from 1993, and even then it gets one meager page and a few sidelong mentions.

It is important to have a grasp on Susan Macdowell before attempting to understand the portrait of her. Susan Macdowell was born in 1851, to a successful engraver who encouraged her and her sisters in their artistic pursuits. At twenty-five she became a student at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, where she met Thomas Eakins. Though she won several prizes while she was a student, after she married Eakins in 1884 she set her own work on the back burner in order to support her husband’s career. That doesn’t mean that she in fact ceased painting all together, but that her own career was less important than Thomas’s. She had a space in Eakins’ home studio, where she continued to paint throughout their marriage while also assisting him in his work.

After Eakins’ death in 1916, she engineered a number of shows of his work and the sale of many of his paintings, because he did not leave her enough of an estate to exist comfortably on. One of the canvasses she parted with was The Artist’s Wife and Setter Dog, which in 1923 was purchased by the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Macdowell’ first one-woman show as at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts in 1973, thirty-five years after her death in 1938. Since then, however, her reputation as an artist has largely been hidden in the shadows of her husbands’, though Charles Bregler, a friend of the couple, declared that she “would have been a great painter if she hadn’t married.”

Thomas Eakins began his portrait of Susan Macdowell after their marriage in 1884. The setting for the painting is in Eakins’ studio, which can be deduced from the array of his work on the walls behind Macdowell and Harry. Macdowell is seated on a chair in the center of the canvas with a book on her lap and Eakins’ dog Harry lying at her feet. She wears a sky blue empire-waist dress, possibly made of silk, which looks like it is from the late eighteenth or early nineteenth century, and red socks- neither of which was remotely related to the fashion of the time period. She is also clearly not wearing a corset under the dress, because she is slouched at the waist and hunched at the shoulders in a manner that fashionable garments prohibited. The book on her lap is one of Japanese prints. Her other hand rests palm up, with the fingers curled in. In relation to the studio and to the dog, Macdowell seems petite and almost frail. Her complexion is approaching sickly, and the way Eakins painted her features makes her seem exhausted or ill. When compared to photographs of Macdowell from around the same time, the painted figure is emaciated and frail- the photographs of her in a white laced dress (also a studio costume) show a robust, healthy figure.

What is most important to note, however, is the gaze with which Eakins painted his wife. Unlike most other portraits of women from the time, Susan Macdowell looks directly out from the canvas at the viewer. Her expression isn’t vague or dreamy, and nor is she looking into the middle distance past the viewer of the canvas. She is interacting with the audience. The first member of the audience was, of course, her husband, and it is interesting to note that the second owner of the painting was not Macdowell herself but her father. She only became the official owner of the portrait after the men in her life died. Both the provenance and the issue of the gaze and audience will be discussed in more detail later in the paper.

The other portrait that will be used to show how Eakins’ portrait of Susan Macdowell and Harry will be Edwin Blashfield’s Portrait of the Artist’s Wife, Evangeline Wilbour Blashfield, from 1889. This painting is much more in line with the sort of aesthetic, decorative portrait of a lady that one generally expects from this time period. Edwin Blashfield was an academic painter and muralist who exhibited this portrait of his wife in the Paris International Exposition of 1889 and won a bronze medal for it. Formally it makes a good comparison to Eakins’ portrait because both women are shown seated in an interior, surrounded by aesthetic objects and where they almost become one of the lovely objects themselves.

It should be immediately obvious, however, that there are a number of very important differences. Again, the issue of the gaze arises; where Macdowell looks back at the viewer, Blashfield painted his wife looking off into the distance past the right edge of the picture plane. She holds a fan, like van Buren, but her fan is open across her lap. The interior she is sitting in his a very stylishly aesthetic setting which doesn’t hold any references to Blashfield’s artistic production and certainly doesn’t look like the interior of a painter’s studio. Evangeline Blashfield’s features and figure are idealized and graceful, unlike Macdowell’ emaciated figure and tired face.
Certain subtle elements of the painting are directly related to Evangeline Blashfield and her family, but they are subsumed by the overall aesthetic qualities of the piece as a work of art. There is no indication of her work as an author or philanthropist in the portrait. Blashfield’s gown is a variation on contemporary fashion related to the health reform movement, which her mother was involved in. The decorative elements in the furniture refer loosely to her father’s work as an Egyptologist instead of her husband’s artistic career and style.

I keep bringing up the issue of Susan Macdowell Eakin’s gaze in The Artist’s Wife and Setter Dog for several reasons. The first and most immediately obvious in relation to the other works is that formally, the composition works differently when the subject looks out at the viewer directly. Susan Macdowell is not looking down or to the side, she is viewing the viewer. The second and third issues are built from this: the second, who is she looking at and the third, who is looking at her. The simplistic answer to both of these is you or the audience, but these are both loaded. The questions of who is looking and who is being looked at are important ones because they can reveal the artist’s intent as well as broader social contexts. For this paper however I am less interested in greater social contexts and am primarily looking at how this painting of Eakins’ and his possible intents varied from those of other artists and other paintings.

That Eakins’ painting was intended for a different audience than Blashfield’s is clear from its display history; Eakins did not submit it to the Paris International Exposition of 1889, for one, and it was owned not by a museum or society family where it would be seen by large numbers of people, but by Susan Macdowell’ father. The fact that Eakins reworked the painting two years after he started, and made his wife look worse, is also indicative that this was not a painting he intended for public consumption (though it is interesting that he gave such an unflattering portrait to Macdowell). Eakins also likely intended this for an audience who was previously familiar with his work. The studio behind Macdowell is decorated with the products of his artistic labors, including another painting that his wife may have modeled for and the Arcadia reliefs, which she certainly did. What is clearly absent from the studio setting, however, are signs of Macdowell’ personal artistic output, though it is documented that she did continue to paint for herself after marrying. The studio is full of Eakins’ prized objects.

These prized objects include Harry, his setter (instantly recognizable from other paintings Eakins did), and his wife. There, I think, lies the root of the issue. Unlike his portraits of other women (other women who he did not possess, other men’s wives and daughters), Eakins had a claim over Susan Macdowell that made it possible for him to objectify her in a way that he couldn’t with other women. Now that isn’t to say that there isn’t a degree of objectification happening in his portrait of Amelia van Buren- I would argue that there’s just as much there as there is in The Artist’s Wife- but it is a different kind of objectification. Amelia van Buren looks away, is wearing fashionable clothes, holds a decorative object rather than a book, and is shown in a vague setting. She is more traditionally objectified. Susan Macdowell, on the other hand, is objectified according to Thomas Eakins’ artistic sensibilities, as part of his artistic production and his setting. He is able to project his ideas onto her because she is his as much as Harry or the Arcadia relief. This suggests to me that Eakins intended this painting to be more personal, and that the presumed viewer for the painting was first and foremost himself. The way Macdowell was painted looking back may have reinforced for him the interaction between them as a married couple, as artistic colleagues, and as artist and his subject.

Edwin Blashfield’s painting, in direct contrast, conforms to a degree of aesthetic finish, loveliness, and predictable objectification that Eakins’ portraits, even of women he was not married to, never seem to have. Eakins patently refused to sentimentalize or idealize his female subjects in a way that would be easily understood by the general public. This can be seen in both of his paintings discussed here. Blashfield’s portrait of his prettily dressed wife is soft, elegant and non-confrontational. She is presented to a broad audience that would have no trouble accepting this image of a woman without an explanation of the artist’s personal principles. She is presented as an aesthetic object. And though like the painting of Susan Macdowell, the portrait of Evangeline Wilbour Blashfield lacks overt references to her work, it also lacks overt references to his. His identity as a man, a husband, and an artist was less important to the painting’s success than the formal qualities- at the Exposition, it was titled simply, Portrait, not Portrait of the Artist’s Wife or Portrait of Evangeline Wilbour Blashfield.

The final question of just who, exactly, is Susan Macdowell looking at may be the hardest to answer. If I am correct in surmising that the primary viewer of the painting was supposed to be Thomas Eakins himself, and that she was supposed to be read in this painting as one of the objects in his studio, then her gaze is directed at her husband, as an interaction between them as a couple or as previously said, artists, or as the subject of the artist’s work. However, reading her as an active viewer herself when I have said she was objectified is complicated. If she is read as an object in the painting, how can she have the agency to interact with the viewer? I would propose that this picture of her is in fact more layered than it first appears. Susan Macdowell is the canvas, the object, and the subject of this painting.

Macdowell functions as the canvas for Thomas Eakins in that her position as his wife gives him the authority to project his own artistic principles onto her. In the academic tradition of the female body as a tabula rasa for the male artist, Eakins takes his wife’s image as a starting point to reinforce his own style, ideas, and vision. She appears in two, possibly three places in the painting: as the central figure, in the Arcadia panel behind her, and possibly in Retrospection. This leads directly to her position as the primary object of the painting. Her training and successes as an artist are completely absent from the picture. She is an object that Eakins could repeatedly use in his work. She is as positioned in his space as the rug on the floor and the paintings on the wall. Even her costume, and it is a costume, is an element of his work. Were it not for her portrait and the title of the painting, she may as well have been a dressed up lay figure. It is her personal appearance and the title of the work that bring the third layer, the subjectivity, to the work.

Susan Macdowell’ subjectivity in this painting is derived from three things: the way she is named in the title (to a lesser degree), her face, and her gaze. The fact that she is not directly named as Susan Macdowell does slightly detract from this, though unlike the Blashfield portrait, where its original display title the woman was given no identity at all, the title of Eakins’ work confers some degree of individuality. Her face is the next part: though the portrait Thomas Eakins painted of his wife was by no means flattering, it is undeniably Susan Macdowell Eakin’s face that graces the canvas. Her individual appearance was not reduced or idealized to conform to an abstract, impersonal, impossible canon. When Eakins reworked the canvas in response to a period of stress, he painted her features to reflect the actual conditions of their lives. And it is this last note- their lives- that adds the final layer to her subjectivity. Macdowell’ gaze out at her husband as he painted reinforces her position as his wife, someone with whom he interacted on a daily basis, who was considered his helpmate and partner. The title of the painting, The Artist’s Wife, leads me to believe that Eakins intended this direct connection between Susan and Thomas, made permanent on canvas, to be a reflection of their relationship as husband and wife first and foremost.

I think it’s important to make a point of noting what Susan Macdowell did with this painting after she inherited it from her husband (who himself inherited it from her father). She sold it. It was included in the large retrospective exhibition of Eakins’ work at the Met in 1917 and then in 1923, it was purchased by the Fletcher Fund of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. Why do I think this is so important? Really, I think it’s relevant because if she was as emotionally attached to this portrait as I imagine Eakins himself and her father were I think she would have held onto it out of the collection she took control of after Eakins’ death. In one letter, Macdowell expressed her sadness about having to sell another one of her husband’s paintings because he hadn’t left her a comfortable estate to exist on; no mention was made of distress at having to sell a portrait of herself. This leads me to believe that the painting was more important to Eakins as an expression of his artistry than to her as a commemoration of their relationship.

SO YEAH :D

Oh hurray, finally some real art history on my blog! Thanks so much Liza (@madmissliza on Twitter and definitely worth a follow). I’d never encountered Eakins before and am now keen to find more of his work. The Blashfield portrait is exceptional and on a par with Sargent at his most luxe.

Writing update

22 May

Well, Before The Storm is almost finished and I find myself gripped by that peculiar fear that strikes towards the end of any writing project. I’m almost paralysed with fear and can hardly bring myself to write anything because as soon as it is finished, I will have to tackle the edits and also think seriously about its ultimate fate. Or maybe it’s just me?

I have a couple of agents interested in looking at my work, which is nice but I really enjoy self publishing so am undecided. Of course, they’ll probably hate it so it’s moot, but if they do, I think I’ll feel a bit relieved actually as then I can get the divinely talented Liza Falzon to design me the gorgeous cover I’ve been daydreaming about and I can get cracking with launching this book myself.

I have to finish it first though. I’ve reached June 1792 and one character has just woken up in her bedroom, which is cheerily decorated with tricolor striped wallpaper, while another is anxiously watching the crowds begin to mass outside the Tuileries palace. This is my last book for a while about the French Revolution so I’m making the most of it! The tone is becoming progressively darker – the early chapters were light and full of gilt and silk and chatter, but oh how times have changed. Just look at this David portrait from 1792…

I love the change in fashion though – whereas earlier I was describing shimmering silks, sequins, lace edgings and opulent rose scented brocades, it’s now all about the stripes and a much more becoming silhouette. Times may have been terrifying but at least one could still look elegant.

In the meantime, my second book, Blood Sisters, which is set during the French Revolution will be out this summer, which is very thrilling! I have just been working on my publicity pack for it, which involved coming up with enticingly worded descriptions of my work and shyly badgering the very very lovely Catherine Delors and Susan Higginbotham (both writers that I admire very much so I was tremulous with fear and excitement when I asked them) for author endorsements for the cover.

Oh, the cover – I’ve also had to supply some keywords and ideas for the cover design, which was very exciting. I know precisely what I would LIKE it to look like (winsome girl in white muslin a la reine with a red ribbon around her neck and a misty Versailles and guillotine in the background), but am really looking forward to seeing what they come up with. Judging by the other Embrace covers, it will be gorgeous.

I’m off to Cumbria in a couple of weeks to poke around castles, bemoan the lack of vegan food, swim every day and finish off Before The Storm. I can’t wait! I’m also taking a big box full of research books for my next project, which is a novel about Minette, the sister of Charles II and sister in law of Louis XIV. I’ve been quietly acquiring a mountain of books about her life and times and feel so excited about this novel! I want to go back to Paris and Versailles later this year to do some more research – I’ve always visited with ‘eighteenth century’ eyes in the past so I want to spend a week discovering the seventeenth century city instead. This appeals to my Archaeological training – this peeling away of layers to reveal another city lurking underneath.

Unusually, visiting Minette’s birthplace will involve a half hour drive down to Exeter. I love that her brother used to call her an ‘Exeter woman’ and after her untimely death, gave the city a gorgeous full length portrait of her, which still hangs in the Exeter Guildhall. I will be paying it a visit next time I am there.

I’m even considering returning to English Civil War re-enactment as part of my research. Not the Sealed Knot as I don’t think that would be a good idea for various reasons, but maybe the ECWS. Dave would make an excellent pikeman and the boys would enjoy it too. Hm.

I’ll leave you with this divine rose pink 1660s bodice in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum. Can’t you just imagine Princess Henrietta in this or maybe the beauteous Nell Gwynne?

The transformation of Marie Antoinette

15 Mar

The Secret Diary of a Princess has been described by one of its readers as ‘Bridget Jones written by Georgette Heyer about Marie Antoinette’, which is simultaneously worrying and also exceedingly flattering as I love Bridget Jones and Georgette Heyer is my all time favourite authoress. When I started writing it, my plan was to recreate the early years of Marie Antoinette from her life at the Viennese court to the point that she became Queen of France. It seemed to me that everyone is familiar with the hoary tale of the enchanting Queen whose life fell apart amidst sordid calumny and Revolution, but not many people knew about what had led her dainty silk slippered feet to such an awful precipice.

I was also intrigued by the young Marie Antoinette: the youngest and least important of Maria Theresa’s eight daughters. At first it seemed like she was fated to be either married off to an obscure princeling or, unimaginable, consigned to a convent but a series of family tragedies which left one sister disfigured and another dead, brought her to a new prominence and ultimately led to her betrothal to the Dauphin.

It seems amazing to us now, with the shimmering, luminously beautiful image of Marie Antoinette as painted by Vigée-Lebrun before us, that the young princess was ever anything other than exquisite, with that immaculate grasp of fashion and high maintenance grooming that we scruffy English roses envy so much in our French sisters. But so it was.

When, at the age of thirteen, the young Archduchess Maria Antonia was first proposed as a match for the Dauphin Louis, she was not actually considered to be suitable French Princess material with both her wardrobe and her looks found to be wanting. The Duc de Choiseul, who was busy promoting the match in France, was informed by the French ambassador to Vienna, the Marquis de Durfort and by Maria Antonia’s tutor, the Abbé Vermond that the girl was childish, disliked etiquette, had no interest in fashion and often looked unkempt to the point of scruffiness. They also reported that her teeth were crooked and her hairline was wonky. As for her bosom? Oh la la.

Anxious that the match should go ahead, Maria Theresa set to work, first of all accepting assistance from Choiseul with regard to updating her daughter’s wardrobe to that of a chic and refined French girl. Parisian dressmakers, no doubt the favourites of Choiseul’s fearsome sister, the Duchesse de Gramont, were despatched to Vienna, bearing legions of fashion poupées to take the Archduchess in hand and, much to her disgust, she was made to wear a restrictive whalebone corset.

”Today it was the turn of the dressmakers. I spent several hours this morning being measured for what is to be a splendid collection of clothes. ‘Mama is determined that you should look as exquisite as any of the French princesses,’ Amalia said with a smile as she sat in a chair and watched while the dressmakers showed me swatch after swatch of silk, cotton, taffeta, brocade and velvet in all the colours imaginable, some striped, some spotted and some patterned with tiny stars, hearts, flowers and fruits.

There was a milliner as well with the most gorgeous designs for bonnets and hats, a stocking maker who showed me delicious stripped and plain silk stockings, several shoe makers who measured my feet and then made me try on beautiful shoes, the colour of delicate Spring flowers with diamond buckles and ribbons at the heel.

‘I am sure that Monsieur de Durfort will appreciate all of the effort that has been made to attract his approbation,’ Amalia commented wryly as she picked up a sample of very fine Brussels lace and examined it against the light. ‘Let us hope that he is suitably bedazzled by your transformation.’

I smiled, lifting up my green silk skirts to admire a very lovely peach silk shoe, decorated with green velvet ribbons. ‘I do not see how he could fail to be impressed.’ I turned my ankle this way and that, thinking how pretty it all was and how lovely I would look from now on. What could the French possibly find to complain about now?” — The Secret Diary of a Princess, Melanie Clegg, 2010.


Next to be corrected were her teeth and in 1768, a French dentist by the name of Pierre Laveran arrived in Vienna bearing what probably appeared to be a hideous torture device but what was actually an eighteenth century form of brace, designed by the inventive dentist Pierre Fauchard. We can only imagine Maria Antonia’s feelings on being told that she would have to wear it for many months to come!

Today, however, Joseph was waiting for me there with a new French dentist who bowed very low and then politely requested to be allowed to see ‘Madame l’Archiduchesse’s’ teeth. He had a silly wig and smelled strongly of roses and cloves, which was pleasant at first but then began to give me a headache as he stood behind me and poked and prodded inside my mouth for about ten minutes before announcing that my teeth were of acceptable quality but lamentably crooked.

‘What is to be done?’ Joseph asked with a frown. Who would have thought that my teeth would be cause of so much fuss? ‘Can they be straightened?’

The dentist grinned and bowed. ‘But of course! I trained with the great dentist, Pierre Fauchard himself and so am entirely proficient with the employment of a brace on the teeth.’ He opened a small wooden box and produced a strange contraption made of metal and silk threads. ‘It looks entirely insignificant, does it not, but this device, invented by Monsieur Fauchard himself, will straighten Madame l’Archiduchesse’s teeth in a matter of months.’

I stared in horror at the ugly brace as he excitedly waved it around. ‘You expect me to put that thing in my mouth?’ I asked, casting an imploring look at Joseph. ‘Will I have to wear it all the time? Won’t I look very ugly?’

‘Better now than later on when you are seen more in public,’ Joseph said with a shrug. ‘Just try not to smile at Monsieur de Durfort.’” — The Secret Diary of a Princess, Melanie Clegg, 2010.


Last to be sorted out was her hair, which was a mass of often unbrushed reddish blonde curls. Of course at the time, hair was a very, very big deal and so having the perfect hair was of the utmost importance, especially in a princess of France. Once again, Choiseul’s sister Béatrix, the Duchesse de Gramont came to the rescue and sent her own hairdresser, Larsenneur to the Hofburg, where he modified the style favoured by the late Madame de Pompadour so that it would disguise the Archduchess’ high forehead and accentuate her youth and charm:

“’He arrived today, Monsieur Larsenneur, a small man with a monkey face, pink taffeta coat and ingratiating manner. I did not like him at first and was unwilling to allow him to touch my hair but had to relent in the end and let him have his way, while Amalia and Elizabeth stood by and gossiped with their ladies in waiting. He started by staring at me for a while, with his little head on one side and a gleam in his eye. ‘Ah, but la petite is careless of her beauty,’ he whispered to me at last, in a very flirtatious manner that I did not really like and which made me feel hot and embarrassed. ‘Do not look so nervous, belle chérie, I shall transform you from a gauche girl into a beautiful young woman.’

‘Just by doing my hair?’ I could not help but laugh at him.

Larsenneur looked hurt. ‘But of course. A beautiful coiffure is everything nowadays! Did you not know that?’ He lifted up one of my reddish blonde curls. ‘Ah, but Mademoiselle has the most lovely strawberry blonde hair, comme une fraise. I had expected a blonde Viennese fräulein, not this.’ He tutted as he looked through my hair. ‘Do you not have maids to brush your hair? Why so many tangles?’

I jerked my head away. ‘I do not like to have my hair brushed,’ I muttered. ‘It is boring and hurts my head.’

‘Tsk, this will never do. A princesse does not have tangled hair like a… like a fille de ferme. It is not right!’ He waved his silver handled comb in my face and looked really quite upset. ‘From now on you must submit gracefully to having your hair brushed through no less than twice a day. A hundred strokes each time!’ I must have looked appalled as he pinched my chin consolingly. ‘Ah, but after only a very few days Mademoiselle will be rewarded with the most beautiful hair and be the envy of all who see her.’ He raised his voice. ‘Now, I must have gossip while I work! Someone tell me something scandalous! Do you have scandals in Vienna? I want to hear them all!’

‘Cover your ears, Antonia,’ Amalia said with a laugh.

It took a very long time and I was very weary and short tempered by the time Larsenneur had finished his work, but oh, it was so worth it. I stared at myself in the mirror for a very long time, unable to believe that the sophisticated little lady with powdered, carefully arranged hair staring back was me. ‘Mademoiselle entered this room as a gauche, untidy schoolgirl and now, voila!’ the little hairdresser crowed triumphantly as he tucked a final delicately blooming pink rose behind my ear. ‘Mademoiselle, you are a beautiful princesse at last.’” — The Secret Diary of a Princess, Melanie Clegg, 2010.


Of course, Maria Antonia’s transformation was not just sartorial – there were hours of dancing and etiquette lesssons to be endured as well before she was declared to have the requisite poise and majestic bearing of a Dauphine of France. For the young Archduchess, who loved to spend her time frolicking in the grounds of Schonnbrunn with her friends and pet dogs, the new improved version of herself that gazed back out from her mirror must have seemed very alien and strange at first…

The Secret Diary of a Princess is now available for Kindle from Amazon US and Amazon UK.

 


Girls in Pearls – Claudia Lanfranconi

8 Mar

I have been after this book for a while so was pretty thrilled to pick it up on Amazon Marketplace the other day! It really doesn’t disappoint at all either as it’s packed full of beautiful images of women painted with pearls, accompanied by an elegant, interesting summary of the paintings as well as the cultural history of pearls throughout the centuries.

It covers society ladies, children’s jewellery, pearls in Christian art, courtesans, princesses, queens, divas and icons – all of whom are linked by their love of the lustrous beauty of pearls.

I really recommend this one to anyone who is interested in art history, portraiture, nice paintings of pretty ladies and er serious jewellery. That’s most of you then!

Women and pearls – this is a story that deserves its own chapter in the history of jewellery, in the history of art and, of course, in the biographies of the women who wore the jewels. The Egyptian queen Cleopatra destroyed one of her valuable pearl earrings in order to seduce the Roman commander Mark Antony. In England, after Elizabeth I had Mary, Queen of Scots beheaded in 1587, she promptly took possession of her cousin’s magnificent jewels. And arguably one of the most agitated moments of the actress Elizabeth Taylor’s life was when a pekineses ran off with her precious pearl pendant…‘ — Claudia Lanfranconi, introduction to Girls in Pearls.

Bianca de’ Medici, Bronzino, 1542.

Eleanora de’ Toledo and her son Don Giovanni de’ Medici, Bronzino, 1550.

Kitty Fisher, Reynolds, 1759.

Caroline Murat, Vigée-Lebrun, 1807.

Maria of Bavaria, Stieler, 1826.

Olga Nikolayevna of Wurttemberg, Winterhalter, 1865.

Tsarina Maria Alexandrovna, Winterhalter, 1857.

Princess Eulalia of Spain, Boldini, 1898.

Coco Chanel, Man Ray, 1934/5.

Marilyn Monroe, unknown photographer, 1950s.

Marie Antoinette by Jean-Laurent Mosnier

24 Feb

I was really excited when I came across this frankly gorgeous 1775 miniature of Marie Antoinette by Jean-Laurent Mosnier. Excited and also absolutely envious of the lucky person who bought it for €91,000 when it came up for sale at Christie’s Paris in June last year.

Sorry about all the different views but I got a bit carried away while admiring the delicate colours and the exquisite shading. It’s so pretty though that I’m sure you don’t mind!

 

You can read the full description of the piece on the Christie’s site!

The mysterious Catherine Howard…

20 Feb

My first thought when I saw the painting is that it must surely be a portrait of Catherine Howard, the unfortunate fifth wife of Henry VIII. It is listed in the collections of the Met Museum, New York as ‘Portrait of a Young Woman in the style of Hans Holbein the Younger’ but a look through the work’s provenance reveals that I am not the only one to wonder if perhaps this is not just a genuine Holbein but also a painting of the elusive Catherine Howard.

The reasons for this tentative identification are the sitter’s age, which is given as seventeen; the richness of her clothes and her auburn prettiness – all of which would fit with Catherine Howard, who probably didn’t live past her twentieth birthday and was said to be a petite, vivacious, pretty redhead with a fondness for costly, lavish garments.

Fashions didn’t change all that rapidly during the reign of Henry VIII, although one can track small changes in the vogue of the time as it would have been worn by the more fashion conscious young courtiers. The girl in the New York portrait is dressed in a style that would have been popular in the early 1540s – shimmering satin, full sleeves and a prettily decorated French hood, which we know was very much favoured by Catherine Howard, who was executed on the 13th February 1542.

Compare the painting with this well known miniature by Holbein, that has been traditionally been identified as a painting of Catherine:

The miniature of Catherine Howard has been identified thanks to the lavish jewels that she wears and which are clearly the same as the ones that appear in the Holbein portrait of Jane Seymour and are known to belong to the personal collection of the Queen of England. As one commenter has pointed out, it is more than a little bit creepy that portraits of Henry’s wives are identified by the jewels that they shared but alas, that’s mostly all that we have got to go on.

In the miniature of Catherine, we have the same clear fondness for gorgeous clothes and jewels, the French hood and a similar auburn prettiness. However, there are differences about the face – a thinner mouth for instance and a rounder face.

Perhaps the miniature is a portrait of Henry’s niece Lady Margaret Douglas, the daughter of his sister Queen Margaret of Scotland. Lady Margaret, who was born in October 1515 lived at the English court and was even romantically involved with Catherine Howard’s half brother, Charles at one point. You can imagine how this went down with her uncle Henry…

There also exists a Holbein sketch that has been very tentatively identified as being of Catherine and which, I think bears even more resemblence to the New York portrait with a similar nose, eyes and arched eyebrows:

Of course there are plenty of other young ladies at Henry VIII’s court that this portrait could depict – it may depict one of her two sisters, Margaret or Mary for instance or someone not related to her at all!

It’s all hypothetical of course but I rather like the idea of a new portrait of Catherine Howard coming to light. What do you think? I’ve always thought that miniature portrait, despite the royal fabulousness of the clothes looks too ‘old’ to be pretty Mistress Howard who, if not the idiot that she is popularly portrayed to be (quite the reverse – she was more literate than average for a girl of her age at this time), was a typically flighty and fun loving young girl in her teens.

Not to mention this much discussed Holbein portrait, which was always traditionally identified as the unfortunate Catherine until suddenly opinion decided that it was actually a painting of Elizabeth Seymour, Jane’s sister and Thomas Cromwell’s daughter in law. Gosh, they liked to keep things complicated and a bit close knit didn’t they but remember what I said on a recent post about there only being less than a hundred female courtiers at Henry’s court amongst all those men? Lately however, David Starkey has decided that actually this IS a painting of Catherine after all because of, you guessed it, the jewellery that she is wearing.

I really don’t like this attribution though – for a start she looks too old to be warm hearted, jolly teen bride Catherine, who probably didn’t even make it to the twenty one years of age that this lady is. However, I don’t know, do you think there is something a bit whimsical, playful even in her eyes? Am I imagining it? No, I think that I must be. She just looks a trifle smug doesn’t she?

The thing is, can you imagine men dying for a kiss (okay it was a bit more than a kiss but this is a family blog) from those thin coyly smiling lips? Can you imagine an elderly King ‘so amorous of her that he cannot treat her well enough and caresses her more than he did the others’? Even allowing for taste, which in Henry’s case I suspect tended towards the more obviously attractive. Can you imagine the woman in this portrait setting men’s hearts aflame with dangerous and reckless lust?

No, me neither. Sorry Portrait Lady, for all I know you could have had more tricks than the Mata Hari but I’m going to have to disbelieve it on physical evidence alone.

The girl in the first portrait though? Hm, maybe…

Femme à sa Toilette, Mme de Montesson

30 Jan

Femme à sa Toilette painted by Guillaume Voiriot in around 1760. I wrote about this painting back in the heady days when I first started this blog but am going to write about it again as I think that this must be one of my all time favourite eighteenth century portraits.

I first came across it while wandering around the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris a couple of years ago. I’d just been gently scolded for taking photographs in the Jean Paul Gaultier exhibition in the Musée des Modes and so was too abashed to take photographs in its magnificent sister museum.

I was more brazen when I went back last June, as you can see.

I was hiding from a particularly overly friendly curator when I turned a corner and saw this portrait hanging luminous and beautiful against a dark wall. The label says that it probably depicts Charlotte-Jeanne Béraud de la Haye de Riou, Marquise de Montesson and morganatic second wife of the Duc d’Orléans.

Madame de Montesson was a well known society lady in the final days of the ancien régime. She’d been married off at the age of sixteen to the seventy six year old Marquis de Montesson and became well known at Versailles for her beauty, sweetness of nature and wit. After her husband died in 1769, she became the mistress of the Duc d’Orléans who was so enamoured with her that he wished to make her his wife. Sadly, Louis XV refused to give his permission for the marriage and the couple had to wait until 1772, when his successor the young King Louis XVI gave his consent to the match, on the condition that it remained a secret and that Madame de Montesson did not take the title of Duchesse d’Orléans.

I stood for a long time in front of this painting, admiring Madame’s direct yet langourous gaze, the seductive ribbons on her bodice, the lavish falls of lace at her elbow and the exquisite feminine clutter on her dressing table. To me, this painting epitomises everything that I most love about eighteenth century France.

You have here the attractive mistress of a Royal prince, surrounded by serious luxury and yet at her elbow there sits a bouquet of flowers, while in her hand she holds a book, her finger marking the spot at which she was interrupted. She holds your gaze enquiringly, almost as if she doesn’t mind in the slightest if you want to look at her, but she’d actually like to carry on with her reading if it’s all the same with you.

A first sweeping glance of this picture would probably convince you that Madame is as beauteous as her surroundings but there’s also that wonderful eighteenth century trick of loading a portrait up with so much flounce and gilt and gorgeous, luxurious detail that it takes you a while to realise that actually the sitter isn’t actually all that pretty after all.

 

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